If you find yourself struggling to make ends meet, in need of some additional money for home repairs or home improvements, or just find that you have some financial need that you can't fulfill with your standard wages, you might want to consider taking out a second mortgage on your home.
Of course, when many people think of a second mortgage they think of the scenario that's usually presented in movies and on television of individuals drowning in debt who have had to take out several mortgages simply to stay afloat.
While this may be the case with some individuals, most people who take out a second mortgage do so simply as a means to cover expenses or to begin new projects using a form of collateral that is both high in value and easy to find a lender for.
Below is some additional information that will tell you exactly how a second mortgage works and how to get the best deal on your new mortgage that you can. www.justmortgageinfo.com
Defining the Second Mortgage
Before you can get a second mortgage, it helps to know exactly what one is. Basically, a second mortgage is a secondary loan that is taken out on an already mortgaged property. This loan is considered to be subordinate to the original mortgage, which means that the lender who issued the loan will only receive their money after the original mortgage has been repaid in the case of a default and the subsequent sale of the property.
Second mortgages are generally considered to be a higher risk than the original mortgage, since the lender which issued the original mortgage has first rights to the property... because of this, interest rates for a second mortgage are usually higher than those for the primary mortgage.
Common Uses for a Second Mortgage In addition to the examples provided above, there are many common uses for the funds received from a second mortgage. These loans are often used to consolidate multiple debts into a single monthly payment, or they may be used to finance a vacation or moving expenses.
Second mortgages are also a common method of securing startup capital for new businesses in lieu of a small business loan, and have also been used as alternative means for financing new vehicles, paying for medical expenses, and other large expenses that might be difficult to pay for out of pocket.
Shopping for the Best Mortgage Rates
In order to make sure that you get the best rate for your second mortgage, it's important to shop around at different lenders to see who has the better deal. Many second mortgages come from finance companies and mortgage lenders, though you should make sure that you keep your options open... after all, if you decide to ignore certain types of lenders you might miss out on the best rates.
Request loan quotes in much the same manner as you would if you were shopping for a primary mortgage or other loan, getting quotes from a variety of lenders and online lending companies. Take your time and carefully compare both the interest rates that each lender offers and the repayment terms that you're expected to abide by.
Once you've found the second mortgage quote that has the best rates for the terms that they offer, investigate the offer further... there's a good chance that it will be the loan for you. Verify the terms and rates that are offered, and submit your application; you're well on your way to getting the money that you need from your new second mortgage.


Debt Management - Budgeting and Financial Controls
The most fundamental basic of debt (or money) management is to be in control. To know about every penny that comes in and where every penny goes. Ideally, when you open those envelopes that arrive on the door mat every day there should be no surprises.
If you are in debt and/or having financial difficulties, you need to bring yourself around to a situation where your income exceeds your expenditure - you need to establish a budget and stick to it.
Budgeting and sticking to it are two separate things. In this article I am going to cover setting the budget only, sticking to the budget will follow in a subsequent article.
Before carrying on it is worth noting that the principles outlined below are good for not only reducing debt, but also growing personal wealth overall - effectively an investment for the future.
Establishing Costs and Income
The first thing to do is to recognise that all spending is not equal: that some monthly expenditure is more important than others. For example, not paying your council tax for a few months could land you in jail.
The next thing to recognise is that some outgoings are fixed and others are flexible. With this knowledge you can begin to tackle your flexible monthly expenditure intelligently and make progressive steps to reduce outgoings both immediately and over time.
Additionally, you also need to recognise that even fixed expenditure may be reduced with the right approach.
The next thing to do is to list everything you spend money on over the course of the year.
I have put together a budget planning sheet for the purpose of helping you do this. You can download it by using this budget planning sheet link, http://tips.cars-and-money.co.uk and clicking on budget sheet on the right hand menu, or by going directly to the file download by using: http://www.cars-and-money.co.uk/tips/debt-management/downloads/budget-sheet-p1.xls
You will see that the sheet is split into specific sections to provide some guidance on how to breakdown the list. The sheet is also split into columns for yearly, monthly and weekly expenditure so that it is easier to group all like expenditure together even if you pay for it in different ways.
The most critical items are towards the top of the list, i.e.:
housing costs;

- rates and utilities;
- important household services;
- personal insurances.
With the critical items, the consequences of non payment can either be very high and/or occur very quickly, e.g. loss of house, loss of electric, water or gas supplies, imprisonment etc. It therefore makes sense to attend to these bills first.
The next part of the list is critical in terms of day to day living, but much more discretionary, i.e.:
- motoring expenses;
- food and housekeeping;
- miscellaneous goods and services;
- personal and leisure;
- sundries and emergencies.
This group includes some very fundamental items such as food; however, how food is purchased can have a massive impact on monthly expenses. For example, living on takeaways is obviously much more expensive than shopping carefully in the local price leading supermarket.
While detailing the first section is usually fairly clear cut (just check past bills), this section is fraught with difficulty as most of it can be cash or lumped spending. That is, a figure of £150 charged to a card from the local supermarket says nothing about what was purchased on the final bill - who knows, it might have been £150 of beer and crisps - it can be difficult to recall everything.
If it is just you in the household you have the relatively simple task of being honest with yourself about this sort of expenditure so that you can recognise how much is really being spent on what. If you have a partner, or live in a family group, it can be much tougher. The key word is of course honest. You will have to draw out the truth about what is really being spent and who is doing it. If it is the two of you, you may have to recognise there is a key culprit, or that you are both as bad as each other.
In any event this section is a land of opportunity as far cost reduction is concerned so spend time on it, get out past bank and card statements and go through them line by line. If necessary walk through a typical week, or have everyone involved keep an expenditure diary so that everything is exposed.
The third section in the budget sheet is entitled 'credit card and other debt': in other words unsecured debt. Unsecured this may be, but non payment still has consequences in terms of your credit worthiness and other debt collection measures - including the use of county court judgements and even bailiffs. The only difference between this debt and many of the more critical fixed costs outlined above is the time it takes for the consequences to bite.
If you are having financial difficulties then the figures that should go in this section are minimum payments only. You will need to stop using all cards until the situation is resolved.
The last section on the budget sheet is for income. That is, income after tax - employable cash.
Make sure all income is included. So, if you do have shares that earn dividends, or bank accounts that earn interest, then these figures need to be included as well as any salary income from yourself, your partner or anyone else in the household that may contribute to the monthly bills.
With all costs and income identified, we are now in a position to look at the overall picture and start developing a plan that will ultimately become our budget.
With everything in place, there can only be three scenarios:
1 - Income exceeds outgoings
2 - Outgoings equal income
3 - Outgoings exceed income
If income is greater than outgoings then you can continue comfortably. Cost reduction, budgeting and careful saving will pay dividends in terms of loan reduction, early mortgage repayment, or even building up savings and personal wealth.
If income equals outgoings, then the situation is a borderline one and action to reduce costs will need to be taken. However, it is unlikely that savings cannot be made and there is a strong likelihood you have caught things on time and can turn it around.
If outgoings exceed income, then this exercise has not come a minute too soon and it is now time to grab the bull by the horns and turn the situation around.
Planning the Budget
In the previous exercise, we have identified all costs and all income and now have a clear picture of the current situation. Using this information, the budget we set will, in effect, be an overview of how we live our lives from this point on. There will be certain rules that we have to stick with, but we will know that sticking to the rules will allow us to achieve our future financial goals.
The next part of the process is a little more painful and certainly more laborious than the last, but nevertheless must be done.
Begin with the easy stuff first. This is the middle section on the budget sheet, i.e.:
- motoring expenses;

- food and housekeeping;
- miscellaneous goods and services;

- personal and leisure;
- sundries and emergencies.
There will be lots of low hanging fruit here (easy savings to be made).
For example, let's say your daily expenditure diary reveals that on your commute to work you buy a newspaper at the railway station and a coffee while you wait for the train. You buy lunch at the deli around the corner, but go to the local pub for a sit down lunch and a drink on a Friday. You have a drink with colleagues after work on average 2 nights a week and buy an evening paper to read on the train on the way back from work. This is what this expenditure looks like over the week:
Morning coffee: 1.50 x 5 = 7.50
Morning paper: 0.60 x 5 = 3.00
Lunch at the deli 2.50 x 4 = 10.00
Bar lunch: 7.50 x 1 = 7.50

After work drinks: 2.80 x 2 = 5.60
Evening paper: 0.50 x 5 = 2.50
Weekly total: 7.50 + 3 + 10 + 7.50 + 5.60 + 2.50 = £36.10
Look at this again. Every single item is discretionary, yet it will cost you £144.40 in a 4 week month.
You may not be able to give everything up on the list, but taking a flask of coffee to work with a packed lunch may be a start. Many newspapers now offer yearly subscriptions that will cut the weekly bill by more than half - if you still need to have a newspaper every morning and every evening (do you?). The pub lunch could be dropped and the drinks with the colleagues after work cut back to one drink one evening a week - still sociable enough for most people.
In this example we might get back something like £130 per month. If there are two of you doing it, it might be more like £260 per month.
You need to do this type of breakdown and cost reduction exercise on each line item. Drop things like takeaways to a once a month treat and (if you do not already) learn to cook and cut out ready meals and other prepared food. You will not only save money, you will find you start living healthier too.
Examine closely how you do your motoring. Could you mange with one car instead of two? Could you get rid of the gas guzzling 4 x 4, which would reduce insurance, maintenance, road tax and fuel bills - all at once? Take a look at a company like Cash Drive (http://www.cash-drive.co.uk) to see if you could buy a smaller car at a sensible rate.
Hopefully you are getting the idea by now.
Once the individual figures have been reviewed and cost reductions identified, you can put the new figures into the budget sheet and we can now start to see the new budget taking shape.
Next we can look at the first section. That is:
-housing costs;
-rates and utilities;
-important household services;

-personal insurances.
These are largely fixed costs, but there are opportunities here too. Housing costs such as rent or mortgages can be reduced. Mortgage deals can be switched to take advantage of new lender deals, or fixed rate schemes taken on if interest rates look like rising in the near future. The term of the loan can be extended or (if things are really tight) payments dropped to interest only for a while. You need to ask the question.
If you are renting, could you manage with a smaller property, or a one in a less fashionable area? Could you move closer to work at the same time and reduce daily travelling costs?
Take a look at what seems to be fixed costs such as personal, or household, insurances and compare rates and benefits. Deals in this area change literally every week.
Gas and electric costs can be reduced by switching supplier or, better still, turning down the heating and switching off lights and appliances when they are not being used. Focus on this for a while and you might be pleasantly surprised at the difference it will make.
And so on.
The last cost section is the credit card and unsecured debt one. Much like insurances this may be a more flexible area than you think.
If your credit rating is good then you have lots of room here to take on new cards and deals with 0% interest rates. Make sure when you do this that you close down the accounts you are transferring from. That is, you do not increase your overall indebtedness, or availability of debt.
If your credit rating is already poor, or bad, this may not be an option for you, so you will have to find other ways to reduce your repayments. One thing that creditors like to see is that their debtors are in control of the situation. A well put together budget sheet like the one we are in the process of outlining here can be a huge help.
Using the budget sheet you can identify all income and expenditure that needs to be made before handling your unsecured debt. This will leave you a set amount that can be used to negotiate reduced payments to your creditors.
This is a separate subject in its own right, but showing you are in control of your own finances may allow you to negotiate a reduced payment plan with the companies concerned.
Any other thing you can do in this area to consolidate debt and reduce overall interest payments needs to be examined closely.
However, you need to resist the temptation to make any loan consolidations that involve using your property for security. There is probably another way, so explore the other ways first.
The last section is income. You may have been tough with yourself in the cost section, but the other dimension to the budget is of course income. The more you increase your income, the less you need to cut back (or the bigger the benefit if you do).
Whilst writing 'increase your income' is very easy for me to do, in reality it is much harder to do. However, there may be opportunities you had not considered which may be worth exploring such as overtime, weekend shifts, unsociable shifts, additional responsibilities that could be taken on, or even a second job. Switching jobs could also be an option as could be starting a completely new career.
In other words increasing income is not always about getting further up the greasy pole, sometimes it is about taking a sideways move into any area you had not considered before.
One last point on income: while you have the budget sheet in front of you it is worth evaluating the cost of work. In other words, when you add up travel, parking, fuel, dry cleaning, child care, work wear etc then subtract it from your income - that will give you a true figure of what you earn.
Finalising the Budget
The above represents a substantial investment in time and effort. The end result will be a budget sheet which is accurate, personally optimised and which puts you in control of your own finances.
Having made this effort, you should now have identified specific allowances for each item and you now need to be sure that money is allocated each month to cover those items whether they occur weekly, monthly, quarterly or yearly.
It is unlikely that you will be able to reduce all of your costs, move house, change jobs, etc, all at once, so you may have recognised already that this budgeting exercise can be a progressive thing that happens over time.
Therefore, to begin with, you will need to ensure that costs are under control and, as a minimum, outgoings equal income. Over time you will look for cost savings and income increasing opportunities and, once taken advantage of, you can then revisit the budget sheet, put in the new figures and move on.
One completely free benefit to all of this is that, once it is all complete and you are sticking to it, you get a full night's sleep whenever you want.
Next
Sticking to the budget


Fundraising with Discount Cards
Looking for ideas for fundraisers? You're not the only one. Every group is searching for easy fundraisers that produce big results. Well, selling fundraising discount cards is one of the best fundraisers around.
Discount cards deliver considerable revenue for your group at $10 each. They usually produce average sales of 10 units per seller. Coupled with their 80%-90% profit margins, they also generate considerably more profit than most other fundraising products.
These are simple immediate-sale fundraiser products that your group can offer. Discount cards provide these benefits:
They are easy to sell
They offer good value
They produce excellent results
Three types of fundraising discount cards:
Shopping cards
Pizza cards
Fast food cards
Each of these fundraisers has benefits that are easy to explain to your supporters. They have widespread appeal and each can be offered for immediate sale or sold via a simple brochure.
Discount Shopping Card
What exactly is a discount shopping card?
It is a wallet-sized card packed with a selection of prearranged discounts at local and national merchants in your area. Most usually contain a dozen special offers that save the bearer either a fixed amount or a percentage discount.
Each card usually retails for $10 and provides for almost unlimited usage of the special offers. The only exception is when you custom design a card to feature a special one-time only discount from a sponsoring merchant.
This type of premium offering is often worth half the $10 purchase price all by itself, such as $5 off from a national oil change company.
Other money saving examples include free drinks with a fast food order, $1 or more off on a submarine sandwich, savings on video rentals, haircut discounts, free ice cream, and other special offers.
Because of their high perceived value (what family doesn't want to save money these days?), these cards are excellent fundraisers.
Discount cards can often produce impressive unit sales per participant. It's not unusual for each seller to make ten or more sales.
Another interesting benefit is the unique customization of the card. Many suppliers can place your schools' name andlogo on the front side of each card.
This firmly affixes your group's value proposition in their minds for your next fundraiser.
Cards are usually good for a one year period and bear an expiration date on the front. This creates a built-in market for repeat sales.
As with any type of fund raising product it pays to do more than a little supplier research.
Costs for 1,000 unit batches begin at $5 with many suppliers and drop as low as $1.00 from the best companies.
Among ideas for fundraisers, discount shopping cards are a perennial favorite. They also make a good overlay or add-on item for candy fundraising or a catalog fundraiser.
Pizza Discount Card
What is a pizza card and how is it different?
A pizza card is a discount card with an offer tied to a single merchant, usually a national chain. It often provides a two- for-one offer on every order and is tends to be priced at $10 for a card good for a one-year period.
Offers vary with most being tied to either a single location or a small group of outlets for a national chain. Pizza Hut cards are good for eat-in dining while most others are aimed at the take-out or delivery market.
Given how popular pizza is with younger children as well as teenagers, pizza cards are excellent school fundraising ideas.
The cards for Pizza Hut and those for some of the other chains place a limit on the number of times you can use the card, often 21 times. That is a lot of free pizza for $10. Usage is tracked via holes punched in marked spots on the card.
Some of the offers also specify that your initial order must be for a large pizza while your free pizza is a medium size. When you think about it, that works well for most adults because they usually want a different set of toppings than what their children enjoy.
Pizza cards can be obtained from many suppliers. Most offer the same set of national chains and prices can vary widely, so it pays to shop around.
All in all, pizza cards are among the best easy fundraisers based on profitability and ease of sale.
Fast Food Discount Card
What do I need to know about fast food discount cards? Well, they are usually specific to just one fast food chain and often are limited to just one or two locations of that particular chain. They retail for $10 and usually cost less than $2, so they're a great moneymaker.
Offers vary by company, but they usually provide a matching main item with purchase of the same. For example, at Burger king, you might get a free hamburger. At Subway, you usually get a free soda, chips, or cookie with each sandwich purchase.
The cards are limited in duration and number of uses. Usually, they are good for up to one year and restricted to roughly ten uses. Again, the offers vary by chain, so check the details closely.
Participating national chains are:
McDonalds
Burger King
Subway
Dairy Queen
Pizza Hut
Dominos Pizza
Papa Johns Pizza
Fundraising Discount Cards Recap
So, what's the bottom line on discount card sales?
The excellent consumer value of all these cards makes them an easy sale. Their $10 price point makes a cash purchase a simple transaction yet a higher amount than most fundraising items.
Their great value, small size, light weight, and easy handling requirements make selling these cards a breeze.
Most suppliers will provide the discount cards and pizza cards to your group on easy credit terms. That makes them great school fundraisers because you can offer them to your supporters as an immediate sale item, thus simplifying the delivery process tremendously.
Instead of relying on your supporters' discretionary purchasing power in these tough economic times, why not tap into your supporters' everyday spending on fast food meals?
They're not quite necessities, but they are an ingrained spending habit with many families.
Selling fundraising discount cards positions you for a better chance at a larger portion of your supporters' spending. And, because of their high unit volumes, healthy profit margins, and ease of sale, they are excellent school fundraisers because they'll produce exceptional profits.
Make sure your group gets your share!

Kimberly Reynolds writes about fundraisers and tips on using fundraising discount cards on her website. Find hundreds of fundraising ideas on her website.